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Leh & Ladakh
Ladakh Wildlife
Ladakh Travel Information
International travelers to
the Indian Himalayas usually fly into the gateway city of Delhi. The flights
arrive around midnight, and the domestic flights to Leh or other areas leave
in the morning, so most travelers stay at least one night in a Delhi hotel.
If you are making your own arrangements in Delhi, it is advisable to hire a
taxi to your hotel at the prepaid taxi stand in the arrival hall.
Visas
An Indian visa is required and must be obtained from an Indian Consulate, preferably
in your home country prior to travel. In the USA this can be accomplished through
the mail by downloading a visa form and instructions from www.indianembassy.org.
Permits
In Ladakh, special permits are only required for restricted areas like the Nubra
Valley and for summiting certain peaks. We will arrange for these permits as
part of our trip package. For Sikkim travelers, an innerline permit is required
to enter the state and can be obtained free of charge in Siliguri after landing
at the Bagdogra Airport. A passport size photo is required. For trekking in
Sikkim, an additional trekking permit is required and must be applied for in
advance or your trip. We will assist in obtaining these permits as part of our
trip package.
Money
The official currency in India is the Indian Rupee. Travelers can change money
at the airport or at the banks and official money exchanges in Delhi and other
cities. These exchangers will readily accept cash. American Express travelers
checks are usually accepted, but other brands of travelers checks are harder
to exchange. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses. ATM machines are
beginning to make their appearance, but they are not widespread.
Accommodations
A wide price range of hotels is available in Delhi, but generally, the better
ones are expensive (as in most big cities). Lodging in Leh is much more reasonable
and can range from guest houses to Class A hotels. Most hotels in Leh have meal
plans that are included with the cost of the room. We will gladly arrange accommodations
to suit your budget.
Telephones and E-mail
India's telephone system works well. The traveler can make local and international
calls from one of the many STD/ISD facilities. The country code for India is
91. The city code for Delhi 011 and for Leh is 01982. Internet service is widely
available.
Time
India is 10 hours and 30 minutes ahead of New York (5 hours and 30 minutes ahead
of GMT).
Electricity
Voltage is 220 at 50 cycles AC. The central electricity in Leh usually is only
available after dark. Many establishments have their own generators as a backup.
Electricity is usually not available the rest of Ladakh
Seasons
Ladakh's four seasons are not as even in length as those of Europe and North
America, the year being dominated by the long, cold winter which is separated
from the short but hot summer by a brief spring and autumn. In many ways, spring
and autumn are little more than the end and the beginning of winter and can
hardly justify being called separate seasons.
When to go and for how long
Ladakh is surrounded by a ring of high mountains and snow-covered passes which,
before the airport was built at Leh, effectively cut it off from the rest of
the world for seven or eight months every year. Although the modem visitor can
now fly into Leh at any time of the year, trekking is restricted to the five
months when the region is free from the grip of winter. The great advantage
of Ladakh as a trekking destination is that rainfall is rare. This makes it
one of the only Himalayan regions in which it is possible and pleasurable to
trek from late June to mid-September, when most other areas are suffering from
the constant deluge of the monsoon.
June, July and August
The trekking season begins in about the middle of June. This is a good time
to come as there won't be many visitors, but you may have to fly in to Leh as
the roads may not have opened and some passes may prove difficult to trek across
if there is still a lot of snow around. Ladakh is at its busiest from the beginning
of July to the end of August. This coincides with the opening of the Manali
to Leh road, linking Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh, which is guaranteed by the
government to be kept open from the first week of July until 15 September. The
weather is good for trekking, with hot days and refreshingly cool nights, although
at lower altitudes it can sometimes be too hot to trek in the middle of the
day. A decade or so ago you could almost guarantee a completely dry summer but
recent changes in the weather patterns of the Himalaya (thought by some to be
the result of global warming) mean that a few days' rain is now a distinct possibility
- come prepared. One drawback at this time of year is the number of visitors.
The classic treks may be busy and popular guest-houses in Leh fill up quickly.
September and October
September is one of the best months to come trekking, as the number of people
both on the trails and in Leh begins to tail off towards the end of August.
If you come at the beginning of the month your stay will coincide with the Ladakh
Festival. The temperatures are pleasantly warm during the day,
without being too hot, but you should come prepared for cold nights, particularly
when you're in the mountains. Many of the tea houses in the mountains will have
closed and disappeared from the beginning of September and some tourist businesses
in Leh shut down come mid September. This can be seen as a benefit as the locals
have much more time for you and it is easier to get a sense of the real Ladakh
without the commercial pressures of the tourist season. The Manali to Leh road
is guaranteed to be open until 15 September and often remains open for much
longer. Some years it can remain open throughout October but you should be prepared
to consider flying if the winter snows come early. It's usually possible to
trek right up until the end of October, although you will need to be suitably
equipped for freezing temperatures after the sun has gone down.
November to March
At the beginning of November the lasting snows of winter begin to fall and the
streams freeze over for five months. The coldest months are January and February
when temperatures fall as low as -40°C transforming the Zanskar River into
a frozen trade route known as the Chadur. By March this savage cold has gone.
For very experienced and well-prepared winter mountaineers and ski tourers the
winter can provide some exciting possibilities. Read Guy Sheridan's account
of the first winter journey from Kargil to Manali, through Zanskar and Lahaul,
in Tales of a Cross Country Skier.
April and May
It is still quite cold during these months and snowfall is not uncommon at the
beginning of April, but by now the ground in the valleys has begun to thaw and
activity has resumed in the villages. Trekking is feasible on low-altitude routes,
such as from Likir to Temisgam and for those with winter walking experience
some higher routes could be attempted. The snow still lies deep on the passes,
but with an early start you should be able to cross most on the firm crust of
the frozen snow. But if you leave it too late, you'll be sinking up to your
chest. The roads into Ladakh will still be closed, so flying in and out is the
only practical option.
Climate
Extremes of temperature
There's a saying that anyone whose head is in the sun and feet are in the shade
in Ladakh will endure both heat stroke and frostbite at the same time. While
this is something of an exaggeration, in summer the sun is incredibly powerful
but step into the shade and you may need an extra layer of clothing. Night temperatures
are comfortably cool. Altitude also plays a strong role in regulating the temperature.
One day you can be trekking at 3000m in the stifling heat, the next you can
be battling over a 5000m pass in a blizzard. Generally, summer days are a warm
20-25°C. Winter is a different matter. Even in Leh the thermometer rarely
rises above freezing and has been known to drop as low as -35°C. In Zanskar
and the far west of Ladakh temperatures as low as this are more frequent.
Rain and Snow
Ladakh is dry in the extreme; a typical year sees under 150mm of rainfall which
produces the characteristically barren landscape. This is because the Great
Himalayan Range forms an almost impenetrable barrier for the monsoon clouds
that sweep up from the south across the rest of the subcontinent. Recent years
have seen a slight change in the normal weather pattern with some rain-bearing
clouds crossing the mountains in August and early September producing a few
days of light rain. In central Ladakh little snow falls in winter while in Zanskar
and the far west of Ladakh, especially around Drass, substantial falls are common.
Valley travel becomes arduous without skis in the deep unconsolidated snow,
and avalanches are a constant hazard in narrow steep-sided valleys.
Getting to Ladakh
By Air
The regular Indian Airlines flights into and out of Leh get heavily booked in
the tourist season - book as far in advance as possible. Whichever way you're
flying, try to book your tickets in Delhi, as the Indian Airlines office in
Leh invariably has long queues and the computers are frequently down. Delays
and cancellations are common because the high mountains that surround Leh airport
make the approach difficult if there is any cloud cover. For this reason, flights
will leave Delhi only if they can be assured of clear weather on arrival in
Leh. If you can't get a seat on a direct flight, you could go via Jammu or Srinagar
instead (but see the warning on p79), or via Chandigarh. It's also possible
to fly to Bhuntar, near Kullu, 40km south of Manali, with either Archana Airways
or Jagson Airlines most days of the week. All these operators have a habit of
frequently changing their services check the flight schedule with a travel agent
or with the airline (see p90) before making rigid plans
Indian Airlines Flights from Delhi to Leh
• Direct Indian Airlines fly direct from Delhi to Leh (US$105, 11/.
hours) daily at 6.10am from mid-May to the end of August. Throughout the rest
of the year there are four flights a week departing at 5.40am.
• Via Jammu There are flights to Jammu (US$105, 70 minutes) every
day, leaving at 9.50am. Onward flights to Leh (US$65, 55 minutes) depart Jammu
on Thursday and Sunday at 9am.
• Via Srinagar There are direct flights from Delhi to Srinagar
(US$115, 11/. hours) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday leaving at 9.30am. Flights
from Delhi to Srinagar via Jammu depart every day at 9.50am (21/. hours). There's
only one onward flight a week to Leh (US$55, 40 minutes) which operates on Saturday
at 9am. Don't be tempted to break your journey and stay overnight in Srinagar.
• Via Chandigarh Flights to Chandigarh (US$65, 40 minutes)
leave Delhi on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 11.20am. The weekly flight to
Leh (US$70, 55 minutes) leaves Chandigarh on Tuesday at 9am.
Flights from Delhi to Bhuntar, Kullu
• Archana Airways have daily flights at 7am (US$150, 1'12 hours).
• Jagson Airlines have daily flights at 7.30am (US$150, 1 hour 50
minutes).
By Bus
Getting to Manali or Srinagar from Delhi is possible all year round but the
two roads on to Leh from there are free of snow only during the summer. If you
are entering Ladakh from Srinagar, the main obstacle is the Zoji La which is
usually snow-free from the beginning of June to the end of October, but bad
weather can significantly shorten this season. The Rohtang La and the Taglang
La, between Manali and Leh, usually remain snowbound for longer and this route
is only guaranteed to be open from the first week in July to 15 September.
• Via ManaIi Buses from Delhi to Manali take about 16 hours. See
pl00 for details of onward buses to Leh. Himachal Tourism (HPTDC) have comfortable
buses to Manali leaving from their office at the back of Chanderlok Building,
36 Janpath, at 7pm daily (Rs450) and they also allow you to book a seat for
the Manali to Leh section of the journey from their office in Delhi. Private
buses to Manali are available from many of the tourist agents around Janpath
for Rs350 but standards vary widely. There are also several state-run buses
to Manali every day which leave from the Inter-State Bus Terminus (lSBT) near
Kashmiri Gate. Prices vary between Rs220 and Rs450 depending on what class of
bus you choose. Make sure you give yourself plenty of time, as you've got to
book a seat at the relevant counter before you can board the bus.
• Via Srinagar Because of militant activity, overland travel in
Kashmir is
not recommended.
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